MEDATERRA AFFIRMA

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A COOL PLACE TO go for dinner tonight? A place that serves unique food that you can't find on every street corner? A place that will welcome you with gracious and competent service? A place with a chef that knows how and when to use a wide variety of exotic spices? Look no further than MEDATERRA, one of Woodley Park's newest eateries just steps away from the Metro station.

The decor in Medaterra is much like its Mediterranean-inspired food: interesting without being overstated. Warm, bright colors and a wide-open dining room calm you from the moment you enter the room. Despite the expansive tile floor, this is actually a place where you can hear your dinner conversation with ease. And you'll certainly be doing a lot of talking about the food at Medaterra.

There are literally dozens of appetizers on the menu here, ranging from a very good hummus to fresh okra sauteed with cilantro, onions, and tomatoes. I like sea scallops, flavorful and not a bit tough. Grape leaves, one of the many vegetarian delights available, are filled with rice and vegetables and perfectly seasoned with nutmeg, allspice, and cumin. The single tahini lamb chop is also good, although it'' overpriced at $5.50. Lamb chops marinated in cardamon and yogurt are offered as an entrée; they're more tender and are by far a better value.

Lamb and fish dominate the entrée list, which is much shorter than the starters. The fire roasted Chilean sea bass fillet is wonderful, its tender, dense flesh crusted with caramelized pomegranate and served very hot (the accompanying couscous is real treat that you can also order as a simple meal with vegetables). There's also a lively shrimp dish served with roasted red pepper sauce. Salmon, rainbow trout, and snapper round out the fish selections.

There are three different lamb entrees at Medaterra. Besides the lamb chops, you can order a braised, spiced lamb shank or the lamb kabob 'extraordinaire', which lives up to its name-tender pieces of fresh lamb served with an unusual tomato yogurt sauce and topped with fragrant Spanish paprika. If you're a little less adventurous, you can also chose chicken skewers, or a grilled chicken skewers or a grilled chicken breast with a garlic yogurt sauce.

Medaterra offers a decent selection of well priced wines from which to chose. The Rosemont shiraz/cab is a good value at $17.95 a bottle. If you're in the mood for a martini, there are a number of specialty drinks available for $6. To end your meal, I recommend the orange baklava-a fun twist on a traditional favorite.

Medaterra is an exciting new restaurant not because it's flashy, but because it's just plain good.

Medaterra. 2614 Connecticut Avenue NW. 202.797.0400. Dinner: Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10p.m. everyday. Dinner with tax and tip about $25 per person.